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Another happy sailor...........

Leaving England – September 2015


28th August to 11th September

(For route Guernsey to Chateaulin click here . If link opens ok, click the left of three icons.)

From Lymington, M was with his all-time favourite crew, Anna. He was happy – just a bit sorrowful because Anna wasn’t aboard for long enough (she “has a life” as people say, whereas M’s life is all afloat).

Anna at sunset

 

Worbarrow Bay at sunset

From Lymington it was time to head generally south or west. Spain is quite a long way away and summer doesn’t last forever in Northern Europe. Via anchorages at Totland Bay, I.o.W., and Worbarrow Bay in Dorset – for a drizzly walk to Tyneham – we reached Dartmouth. Anna left for grandmotherly, motherly and daughterly responsibilities at home.

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Rowan with new loose covers

Beautiful, smart new covers were delivered in Dartmouth and fitted by Rowan. Here’s a picture.

Ashore on Sark with Stuart and Bob
Ashore on Sark with Stuart and Bob

Bob H and Stuart G arrived and next day we headed west…then south. As a typical example of M’s mid-passage destination flips, ‘we’ changed our mind and headed not west to Falmouth but south to Sark in the Channel Islands, because wind was better that way. Arrived in middle-of-the-night darkness with strong tides among the big rocks of little Sark (this is where sailors and boats start to rely on their navigation magic and wizardry apps). Next day, a brief walk ashore. Over to Guernsey where Paul and Susan, fellow walkers from Exeter, were moored on their way home after summer in Brittany. They came aboard for supper and shared tips on ‘best places’ in Brittany. They have an immaculate Nauticat that’s their summer home. (Boats are always eyeing up one another to see who’s most prettily polished – or scruffily informal.) Their boat ‘Patience’ is very very smart – makes me feel in need of beauty treatment.

From Guernsey, south again to Ile de Brehat and upriver Trieux next day to the little town of Pontrieux, where Stuart found a train home to Ipswich. Actually, not one train but four or five, I think.

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Anchored in La Corderie, Ile de Brehat
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Up through the lock to Pontrieux

(At this stage I realise that all these place names mean nothing to most readers. Hence it’s all a bit boring. One day, M will get organised enough to find out how to put a map and track on this website – not yet!)

No time to hang about in Pontrieux – pleasant as it is. River dredging has not been up to scratch, we’re told, and moving towards neap tides, we might get stuck for ages. So we edge my bottom over the silt and escape back downriver to the anchorage in La Corderie off Ile de Brehat. (Sorry any pedant folk! There’s no time now to work out how you type with French accents in the right places)

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The coast is well marked with some magnificent lighthouses

A sunny day ashore wandering among the immaculate stone walls, clipped hedges and profusely flowering pink and blue hydrangea. Others know of Ile de Brahat’s delights too and there are hundreds of day visitors who stroll ashore from the vedettes shuttling back and forth to the mainland.

Back with Henrietta, M swims and works on the sun-tan. (I suspect he’s vain.) Bob H washes scrupulously and is naturally tanned. It’s a joy to have odour-free crew and a tidy saloon. Just don’t look in M’s cabin.

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A calm sea with swell to beat this lighthouse (Four, I think, this one)
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Rusting naval vessels on River Auline
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Heading upriver
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We were ordered out of the way of this one
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P1010184 Peacefully moored at Chateaulin

As I’ve said, it was time to head west and south. From Ile de Brehat, a fabulous windy sparkly day and helpful tide took us along the Brittany coast past Roscoff to anchor off a small island called Siec. There were some little boats and lots of pots, but no sign of people. Just a couple of wartime ruins and one house with a roof on. On west next day and round the corner at the top left of France, to end up in L’Aber Benoit. It’s a tranquil and pretty spot, strewn with the things you need to farm oysters (a shame that neither M nor Bob likes oysters and think it strange that some people start to dribble at the thought – yuk!)…a walk inland was good, though we coincided with early-closing for the local shops…..Next day, despite a pre-dawn departure, it became clear that, with gentle wind, we wouldn’t get through Chenal du Four before turn-of-tide would make it too tricky. Hence, a reason for another destination-flip….it’s Ile Molene in M’s sights now, not Camaret. As it turns out, Ile Molene is a gem just south of Ushant: lots of rocks, a sheltered anchorage, loads of blackberries, a well-loved Catholic church with flower-filled graveyard, sandy beaches, a cool beer. Apparently 200 people live here.….Next day another pre-dawn start for the sail – east this time – past Brest (we were politely ordered to alter course to let a submarine go by), and on about 15 miles up meandering river Auline, through a lock and on to Chateaulin. We seem to be the only visitors, but it’s very peaceful and there’s a huge Leclerc suermarket down the road. The weather forecast isn’t very rosy.

 

Setting forth – August 2015

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Nearly ready to set off

My little adventure probably started on 11th August. That’s the date I was relaunched from Baltic Wharf Boatyard, Totnes. I was in good shape with lots of time, expertise and effort spent in smartening me up. (I noticed M had had a haircut too!) There was a cheery group of well-wishers for the River Dart trip down to Dartmouth.P1010007

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A quick veggie supper in Dartmouth

And once in Dartmouth, friends from Exeter came aboard for a meal, while fine bright evening sunshine highlighted the pretty Kingswear shore. M and Nigel then sailed me east to the familiar waters of the Solent, IT expertise from Nigel enabling my AIS gadgetry to recognise me as Henrietta (this won’t mean much if you are not a boaty person, but matters to me).

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Bob and Andrew with gannets behind (a long way away on the rock)

In Lymington Andrew A. came aboard. We then went west again to Weymouth and collected Bob H. Then on to Alderney, where I was anchored and the men were encouraged by Andrew to visit a gannet colony (A. seems very keen on gannets.) I think there’s a photo somewhere…

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A shopping trip in Cherbourg

…then on to Cherbourg and back to Lymington, my waterline even higher with a load of bottles and French food on board. (Since a boat’s waterline is somewhat akin to your waistline, you can see why I am sometimes bothered!)

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A farewell party
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From the top of the cake

In Lymington, eleven humans (M’s friends and family) came aboard – a happy lively squash in the saloon. There was a special cake – thank you Lizz – with decoration that looked like me. It’s even got my name on it. (You can eat it, heaven forbid!)

Ashore for a spell

For four weeks from early July, I, Henrietta, sat ashore in Baltic Wharf Boatyard, a neighbourly and pleasant place on the edge of Totnes in Devon, with some expert boat people for wood work, engine work and other work. I have been prepared for a long time away. M went to his non-boat home (it’s made of brick and immobile) to tidy up and let it out for tenants. (His new home is aboard me and, as you know, I’m very mobile and made of GRP)

A lot happened during these weeks ashore. I officially became Henrietta, with new documents, new labels and new bits. My decks were cleaned and tidied. A layer or two of polish and lots of smart anti-fouling were applied. Engine serviced, electrical bits, a new solar panel, more handholds…….. You may not be interested in these details but they mean a lot to me, and boat owners know how long and pricey these lists can be!

Finally, I’ve been loaded with a mass of spare parts, tools, even more charts and books and clothes for M, and food and drink and……It makes a boat feel overweight…. though my figure is as fabulous as ever.

We know people who spend years getting ready for sailing adventures like ours, but skipper is a bit impatient, and he hasn’t spent much time pondering the details of what he plans to put me through. (Men can be like that). Anyway, we’re going to leave soon, and just see how we get on. If it doesn’t work out, we think we may be home for Christmas.

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Ready for re-launch

Learning how it all works

From the launch in Plymouth in early June, there was a busy month with lots to learn. Rather than too much detail, I’ll post a few photos. We sailed to the Scilly Isles and up to the Solent, and across the Channel twice. Then we went up the River Dart to Totnes, and out of the water. Skipper and boat are getting to know one another.

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Plymouth, before the sails are even on
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Gentle sail to the Scilly Isles
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Anchored off St Agnes, Scilly (all a bit busy in summer sun)
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Anchored off Swanage
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Brisk breeze to sail out of Alderney

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Trying out Hydrovane – hands-free steering