12th September to 30th November 2023

Galicia,Spain-Porto Santo-La Palma-La Gomera-Cabo Verde

Had I not kept a diary it might have been hard to recall what has happened in recent months. Days and weeks slip quickly easily by.

Every morning I waken to blue skies and warm sunshine, Henrietta bobbing gently or rolling wildly beneath me, knowing how very lucky I am to have a boat, love sailing, have health, family and friends and be far from the world’s horrifying wars and immeasurable suffering. Us liveaboard sailors are truly blessed with good fortune. We know how lucky we are.

Without a self-indulgent description of every place, person and activity seen, met and done, I’ll just say I’ve flitted through familiar islands, met dozens of fine and fascinating people, and enjoyed many invigorating mountain walks and soothing seaside swims.

First stop after mainland Spain, the island of Porto Santo (a small Portuguese island near Madeira), for a haircut. This little island is home to the world’s best hairdresser.

I’m a fairly scruffy, balding, grey-haired English pensioner. Yet, despite this, she deals with every wayward bit of fluff and whisker with all the delicacy, diligence and skill of a brain surgeon.

It’s well worth a two hundred mile detour to get smartened up in Porto Santo; and it’s an utterly charming spot anyway. (But, I ask myself, why on earth would you be interested in when and where I have a haircut? It’s not the sort of thing that normal well-balanced people talk about. Draw your own conclusions.)

Then, on south once more for a quick stop in the Canary Island of La Palma. I’d hoped to lure a Dutch friend to sail with me……but couldn’t.

On next to La Gomera, which, if you’ve followed my earlier travels, you will know is my favourite of all the Canary Islands.

This year in La Gomera there’s a once-in-five-year festival. Our Lady of Guadalupe, or Virgin of Guadalupe, (at least her image) comes out of her remote chapel in the north of La Gomera for a grand tour of the island, starting with a boat ride to the capital, San Sebastián, and continuing for the next few weeks around different towns and villages.

This may sound like a bit of trivial Catholic tradition, but it is not trivial at all. It is a huge event. A flotilla of boats escorts her to the local beach, where thousands of islanders and visitors are waiting to see her safely ashore.

The atmosphere is super-excited with awe and anticipation; helicopter flies overhead; television crews capture key moments (YouTube from Canaries TV below is long – skim through if you want!)

Bajada de La Virgen de Guadalupe | 2023

That was in October. Since then, I’ve had son George to stay, lots more wonderful walks in this gorgeous island and an uncharacteristically sociable couple of months (and another haircut).

In the next few days, I’ll sail south to Cabo Verde. It would be too easy to spend many more months here!