9th to 31st January 2024

The most delightful thing about Suriname is its happily mixed population. In a world where racial, religious and political divisions seem to abound, it’s heartening to find a place where mixing and harmonious coexistence is the norm. (A few local people may tell you otherwise but to a visitor it is heartening.)

Suriname may be the smallest sovereign country in South America and be very sparsely populated (population about 600,000 and under 4 people per square km, compares with England having over 400 people per square km ), but it is home to people of many different origins: American Indian people (Carib and Arawak) who were here long before Europeans arrived, slaves brought in from West Africa by Dutch and British colonist, indentured workers from India and Indonesia, plus Chinese, a sprinkling of Europeans, Brazilians, Haitians and more. 

You will come across a fine old cathedral, Hindu temples, mosques and a synagogue; and the traditional beliefs of jungle dwellers (mainly those who escaped the brutality of slavery) are alive and well. Radio stations offer music from all corners of the earth.

To fill the days whilst waiting for new parts to arrive (to fix the rigging) I’ve visited Paramaribo, the capital, a few times, and spent several days on a jungle tour, as well as countless hours malingering at the little swimming pool and bar.

You don’t swim in the river hereabouts as it’s oxtail soup brown, muddy with strong tidal currents, and sewage, complete trees, even a fridge and other assorted debris swirling around, plus some piranhas.

Paramaribo (bet it’s one of those world capitals you’ve never heard of), is a UNESCO heritage city, at least the inner part is. Not in the way Rome or Dubrovnik are, but it seems because economic development has been so limited that Paramaribo streets haven’t changed a lot since the 16th and 17th centuries. Fine old timber buildings are still standing, some well maintained, others looking a bit lacklustre and unloved; handsome nonetheless.

Jungle trip was a happy interlude. With a mixed band of fellow sailors from Netherlands, Spain and Norway, we packed small backpacks, whizzed along a highway a few hours in a minibus, then whizzed upriver a few more hours (impressively skilful navigation through rocks and up rapids) in local boat to our ‘resort’ of huts, from where we had guided jungle walks, village visits, river swimming.

In theory we should now be able to survive in the jungle (though I wouldn’t have a chance).

We were told for example how to find water-bearing palms, leaves for health (stomach, head, ‘good for the man’, etc), wild plants for food, bugs or creatures to avoid. There’s a lot to learn. I just loved being surrounded by so much untarnished tropical rainforest.

Then joy!

Yesterday, my package of rigging bits turned up.

Today, with the help of fellow sailors, I fitted them.

Tomorrow I’ll probably leave.